The Blackmagic Design Spares – ATEM 1 M/E Panel – Button Large specifically refers to the oversized, high-impact buttons used for the CUT and AUTO transition functions. On the 1 M/E Advanced Panel, these are the two most prominent buttons, designed to be easily found by "feel" while the operator is looking at the program monitor.
Unlike the standard input buttons, these are built for extreme durability and high-visibility tally.
Key Features
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Dimensions: These are significantly larger than the "Medium" (Source) and "Small" (Function) buttons, providing a larger target for the Technical Director.
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Weighted Feel: While the internal switch is an NKK-style tactile, the larger cap surface area provides a different leverage point, often feeling more "substantial" than the smaller keys.
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Dual-LED Support: The large cap is designed to distribute light from multiple internal RGB LEDs, ensuring that when the button turns Red (Program) or Green (Preview/Next Trans), the illumination is bold and even across the entire surface.
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Friction-Fit Mounting: Like the rest of the panel, these use a heavy-duty cross-post mount that snaps onto the transition module's plungers.
When to Replace the Large Button Caps
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Surface "Shine" or Wear: Because the AUTO button is pressed hundreds of times per show, the matte texture can wear down to a glossy, slippery finish.
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Internal Post Fracture: If the button was hit too hard at an angle (common in high-energy live sports), the internal mounting post can crack, causing the button to "tilt" or become stuck against the faceplate.
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Heat Damage: In older panels, the constant high-intensity LED illumination can cause the white diffuser inside the cap to become brittle or "brown out," affecting the color accuracy of your tally.
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Lost/Popped Caps: During heavy-duty cleaning or rough transit in a fly-pack, these larger caps can be snagged and pulled off.
Installation & Labeling
Repair Level: 1 (Very Simple).
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Direct Vertical Pull: Remove the old cap by pulling it straight up. If it’s stuck, use a plastic pry tool or a loop of string. Avoid metal tools that will mar the aluminum chassis.
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Labeling: The large buttons usually have a specific film insert (e.g., "CUT" in bold sans-serif). If your spare is a blank clear lens, you must migrate the old film and the white diffusion plate to the new cap.
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Orientation: The CUT and AUTO buttons are usually square, but the mounting post on the PCB might be oriented a specific way. Align the post and press firmly until you hear the switch engage.
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Clearance Check: Ensure the button "springs" back instantly. If it feels sluggish, it is likely rubbing against the side of the metal cutout.
Diagnostic: Cap vs. Transition Module
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Replace the Cap if: The plastic is physically damaged, missing, or aesthetically worn, but the transition triggers correctly on the first press.
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Replace the Transition Module (ME1) if: The cap is fine, but the AUTO or CUT command only works intermittently, or if the button doesn't light up even though the software shows a transition is ready.
Pro-Tip: The "TD Finger"
Most professional TDs prefer a slightly "heavier" feel for the CUT button to prevent accidental triggers. If your new button cap feels too light or "bouncy," check that you haven't forgotten the white diffuser insert. That extra millimeter of plastic provides the necessary spacing to keep the button seated tightly against the switch plunger.
Are you looking for a single replacement for a broken CUT button, or are you refreshing both the CUT and AUTO caps for a cleaner look?
