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AFFORDABLE BLACKMAGIC EQUIPMENT. Broadcast Engineer standing by for queries.

SKU: S-BLA-ATEMA/1MEPNLCABLE

Blackmagic Design Spares - ATEM 1M/E Panel - Cable Set

R 1,001.65 R 1,054.55
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The Blackmagic Design Spares - ATEM 1 M/E Panel - Cable Set is the complete internal wiring loom for the legacy 1 M/E Broadcast or Advanced Panel. These cables are the communication and power arteries that connect the various modular sections—the M/E button rows, the system control (LCD) area, and the central logic motherboard.

In a professional control surface, physical vibration during transport or heat cycles in a machine room can eventually cause these cables to seat poorly or develop microscopic fractures in the traces.


What’s Included in a Full Cable Set

  • Main Interconnect Ribbon Cables: The wide, multi-conductor grey cables that bridge the M/E button rows to the Main Logic PCB.

  • FFC (Flexible Flat Cables): Paper-thin, white/silver cables specifically for the LCD Display and the Scribble Strip labels.

  • DC Power Harnesses: The red, black, and yellow wire looms that carry regulated power from the Internal Power Supply PCB to the peripheral boards.

  • Encoder/Knob Cables: Small 3-pin or 5-pin harnesses that connect the rotary encoders to the system control board.


When to Replace the Cable Set

  • "Sectional" Blackouts: An entire row of buttons goes dark, but the rest of the panel works. This often indicates a loose or failing ribbon cable.

  • LCD Visual Noise: If the menu screen shows vertical lines, "flickering" pixels, or a mirrored image, the FFC cable is likely pinched or the contacts have oxidized.

  • Ghost Control: The panel sends commands to the switcher that you didn't press. This can be caused by "crosstalk" in a damaged or poorly shielded ribbon cable.

  • Intermittent Connection: The panel works perfectly until it is tapped or the chassis is shifted, suggesting a broken wire inside one of the power or data harnesses.


Technical Installation Note

Repair Level: 3 (Moderate).

  1. ZIF Connector Mastery: The LCD cables use Zero Insertion Force sockets. You must flip the tiny plastic locking tab UP before inserting the cable. If you force the cable in while it's locked, you will strip the silver contacts, rendering the cable useless.

  2. Cable Routing (Dress): The 1 M/E panel is a dense unit. You must route the cables exactly as they were from the factory. If a cable is pinched between a screw standoff and the bottom plate, it will eventually short out.

  3. Contact Cleaning: Before installing a new set, use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the sockets on the PCBs. Dust trapped in the socket can prevent a new cable from working.

  4. Harness Mapping: Take a high-resolution photo of the interior before unplugging the old set. Several power connectors look identical but carry different voltages.


Diagnostic: Cable vs. PCB Failure

To save on repair costs, perform the "Wiggle Test" before ordering:

  • Open the panel while it is safely powered by a UPS.

  • Gently move the suspected cable with a plastic (non-conductive) tool.

  • If the problem flickers or resolves: The cable is the culprit.

  • If the problem is static and unchanging: The issue likely lies in the Main PCB or the Sectional PCB.


Pro-Tip: The "Reseat" First

Before buying a replacement set, try reseating the existing cables. Unplug them, spray the ends with electronic contact cleaner (like DeoxIT), and plug them back in firmly. In roughly 70% of cases, this fixes "dead" rows and screen glitches without needing new parts.

Are you seeing specific issues like lines on your LCD, or is a whole row of buttons failing to light up?

Blackmagic Design Spares - ATEM 1M/E Advanced Panel - Button
Blackmagic

Blackmagic Design Spares - ATEM 1M/E Panel - Cable Set

R 1,001.65 R 1,054.55

The Blackmagic Design Spares - ATEM 1 M/E Panel - Cable Set is the complete internal wiring loom for the legacy 1 M/E Broadcast or Advanced Panel. These cables are the communication and power arteries that connect the various modular sections—the M/E button rows, the system control (LCD) area, and the central logic motherboard.

In a professional control surface, physical vibration during transport or heat cycles in a machine room can eventually cause these cables to seat poorly or develop microscopic fractures in the traces.


What’s Included in a Full Cable Set

  • Main Interconnect Ribbon Cables: The wide, multi-conductor grey cables that bridge the M/E button rows to the Main Logic PCB.

  • FFC (Flexible Flat Cables): Paper-thin, white/silver cables specifically for the LCD Display and the Scribble Strip labels.

  • DC Power Harnesses: The red, black, and yellow wire looms that carry regulated power from the Internal Power Supply PCB to the peripheral boards.

  • Encoder/Knob Cables: Small 3-pin or 5-pin harnesses that connect the rotary encoders to the system control board.


When to Replace the Cable Set

  • "Sectional" Blackouts: An entire row of buttons goes dark, but the rest of the panel works. This often indicates a loose or failing ribbon cable.

  • LCD Visual Noise: If the menu screen shows vertical lines, "flickering" pixels, or a mirrored image, the FFC cable is likely pinched or the contacts have oxidized.

  • Ghost Control: The panel sends commands to the switcher that you didn't press. This can be caused by "crosstalk" in a damaged or poorly shielded ribbon cable.

  • Intermittent Connection: The panel works perfectly until it is tapped or the chassis is shifted, suggesting a broken wire inside one of the power or data harnesses.


Technical Installation Note

Repair Level: 3 (Moderate).

  1. ZIF Connector Mastery: The LCD cables use Zero Insertion Force sockets. You must flip the tiny plastic locking tab UP before inserting the cable. If you force the cable in while it's locked, you will strip the silver contacts, rendering the cable useless.

  2. Cable Routing (Dress): The 1 M/E panel is a dense unit. You must route the cables exactly as they were from the factory. If a cable is pinched between a screw standoff and the bottom plate, it will eventually short out.

  3. Contact Cleaning: Before installing a new set, use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the sockets on the PCBs. Dust trapped in the socket can prevent a new cable from working.

  4. Harness Mapping: Take a high-resolution photo of the interior before unplugging the old set. Several power connectors look identical but carry different voltages.


Diagnostic: Cable vs. PCB Failure

To save on repair costs, perform the "Wiggle Test" before ordering:

  • Open the panel while it is safely powered by a UPS.

  • Gently move the suspected cable with a plastic (non-conductive) tool.

  • If the problem flickers or resolves: The cable is the culprit.

  • If the problem is static and unchanging: The issue likely lies in the Main PCB or the Sectional PCB.


Pro-Tip: The "Reseat" First

Before buying a replacement set, try reseating the existing cables. Unplug them, spray the ends with electronic contact cleaner (like DeoxIT), and plug them back in firmly. In roughly 70% of cases, this fixes "dead" rows and screen glitches without needing new parts.

Are you seeing specific issues like lines on your LCD, or is a whole row of buttons failing to light up?

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