The Blackmagic Design Spares – ATEM Panel – 10 Input Module is the core tactile component of the source selection rows on the ATEM 1 M/E, 2 M/E, and 4 M/E Advanced Panels.
This module is a self-contained "bank" of 10 high-quality NKK-style buttons, their associated RGB LEDs, and the underlying logic circuitry. Because these buttons endure the most physical wear—being hit constantly for cuts and previews—the 10-input bank is the most frequently serviced part of the control surface.
Core Responsibilities
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Source Selection: Manages the primary Program and Preview cross-points for 10 inputs.
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RGB Tally Feedback: Drives the internal LEDs that change the button color to Red (On-Air), Green (Preview), or White/Blue (Unselected).
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Button Logic: Features a dedicated shift-register system that communicates button presses to the Panel's Main PCB via a high-speed serial bus.
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Tactile Feedback: Houses the spring-actuated switches designed for millions of cycles with a specific "click" feel required by professional operators.
When to Replace a 10 Input Module
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Dead Buttons: A specific button in the row (e.g., Input 4) stops registering presses, even though the other 9 buttons in the bank work fine.
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LED Color Failure: A button registers the "Cut," but the LED fails to turn Red, or it shows the wrong color (e.g., flickering yellow), indicating a failure of one of the RGB diode elements.
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Sticky/Collapsed Switches: The button becomes physically stuck in the "down" position or loses its spring-back tension, usually due to heavy use or liquid ingress.
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Bank Blackout: All 10 buttons in the specific section go dark and unresponsive, while the 10-button bank next to it continues to work.
Technical Installation Note
Repair Level: 3 (Moderate).
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Chassis Access: You must remove the bottom plate of the Advanced Panel. The 10-input modules are usually secured by 4 or 6 screws into the top aluminum faceplate.
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Ribbon Daisy-Chaining: These modules are often "daisy-chained." A ribbon cable comes from the Main PCB into the first 10-input module, and another cable "jumps" from that module to the next 10-input bank.
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Lens Migration: Replacement modules often ship as the "raw" board with switches. You will need to pull the clear plastic caps and film labels from your old board and snap them onto the new one.
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Alignment: Ensure the buttons are perfectly aligned with the square cutouts in the faceplate before tightening the screws. If the board is slightly crooked, the buttons will rub against the metal and feel "scratchy."
Diagnostic: Module vs. Main PCB
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It is the 10 Input Module if: The failure is limited to a specific block of 10 buttons.
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It is the Main PCB if: All 40 input buttons across the entire panel are unresponsive or if the panel is failing to boot past the splash screen.
Pro-Tip: The "Interchangeability" Trick
If you have a 2 M/E or 4 M/E panel and a button fails on the Program row (which is critical), you can often swap that physical 10-input module with one from a less-critical row (like a high-numbered Aux row) to keep the show running while you wait for the spare part to arrive.
Are you seeing a failure in the button's tactile "click," or is the tally light failing to change to red when you take the source on-air?