The Blackmagic Design Spares - Camera CC - Screw Set is the complete collection of specialized fasteners for the original Blackmagic Cinema Camera (EF/MFT) and the Production Camera 4K.
Because these cameras were milled from a single block of aluminum, the screws are high-grade stainless steel or blackened steel designed to handle the weight of the heavy chassis. These are non-standard hobbyist screws; using the wrong thread pitch or length can permanently strip the aluminum housing.
What’s Included in a Full Set
A comprehensive service kit usually contains:
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Chassis Screws: Long, thin screws that secure the front and rear halves of the aluminum body.
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SSD Door Hinge Screw: A tiny set-screw that prevents the hinge pin from sliding out.
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Top/Bottom Plate Screws: Countersunk screws for the mounting plates.
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Internal PCB Screws: Smaller, silver-toned screws used to ground the Main PCB to the internal frame.
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Mount Screws: The high-torque screws that secure the EF or MFT lens mount to the sensor block.
When You Need This Set
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Striped Heads: The original screws often used a small 2.0mm or 1.5mm Hex (Allen) head. If a low-quality tool was used, the heads easily "round out," making them impossible to tighten or remove.
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After a Repair: If you’ve opened the camera to replace the internal battery or the SSD bridge, screws frequently go missing or get mixed up.
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Vibration Loss: Cameras mounted on drones, cars, or vibration-heavy rigs can "back out" screws over time if they weren't secured with thread locker.
Technical Installation Note
Repair Level: 1 (Easy) to 3 (Moderate) depending on the screw location.
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Use the Right Tool: Stop if you are using a standard "hardware store" screwdriver. You need a precision set of Hex/Allen drivers. Using a "close-enough" size is the #1 cause of stripped screws on these legacy cameras.
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Thread Locker (Blue Loctite): For the external chassis and mounting plate screws, apply a tiny amount of non-permanent (Blue) thread locker. This prevents them from vibrating loose while still allowing future repairs.
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The "Aluminum Rule": Since the camera body is aluminum and the screws are steel, the body is the "softer" metal. Never overtighten. If you strip the threads in the aluminum body, you will have to use a helicoil or a larger tap, which is a major engineering headache.
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Length Matters: The Cinema Camera uses several screws that look identical but differ by $1\text{mm}$ or $2\text{mm}$ in length. Putting a long screw into a shallow hole can puncture a ribbon cable or short out a circuit board. Always "dry fit" the screw depth first.
Common Screw Locations
| Location |
Typical Head Type |
Note |
| Outer Chassis |
Hex / Allen |
Main structural integrity. |
| SSD Door Hinge |
Precision Phillips or Set-Screw |
Smallest in the kit; easily lost. |
| Lens Mount |
Torx or Hex |
Requires high torque; check for light leaks after tightening. |
| Tripod Plates |
Countersunk Phillips |
Frequently replaced due to heavy wear. |
Expert Advice: If you have one screw that is completely rounded out and won't move, don't drill it! Try placing a wide rubber band between the screwdriver tip and the screw head. The rubber fills the gaps in the stripped head and often provides enough grip to back it out.
Are you looking for the external body screws, or are you missing the specific screws for the lens mount?
