The Blackmagic Design Spares - Pocket Cinema Camera 4K (PCC4K) - LCD Replacement Kit is the specific display module for the original 4K model. While the PCC4K and PCC6K share the same external chassis, the LCD panels and their internal controllers are matched to the specific processing requirements of the 4K model.
This is a fixed 5-inch touchscreen assembly. Unlike the newer 6K Pro or 6K G2, this screen does not tilt or articulate; it is mounted flush within the rear housing.
Kit Components
A standard OEM-grade replacement kit typically includes:
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5-inch LCD Panel: The high-definition ($1920 \times 1080$) display.
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Capacitive Digitizer: The outer glass layer that handles touch input (usually pre-bonded to the LCD).
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LCD Flex Cable: The specialized ribbon cable that transmits the MIPI/LVDS video signal and touch data to the Main PCB.
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Adhesive Gasket: Pre-cut double-sided adhesive used to seal the screen into the rear camera shell.
When to Replace the LCD
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Impact Damage: Cracks in the glass that obscure the image or prevent touch functionality.
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Backlight Failure: The camera powers on and the HDMI output works, but the internal screen remains pitch black or extremely dim.
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Touch "Ghosting": The camera begins changing settings, opening menus, or shifting focus points without being touched.
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Dead Pixels/Vertical Lines: Permanent digital artifacts on the screen that interfere with critical focus or exposure monitoring.
Technical Installation Note
Repair Level: 3 (Moderate/Advanced). Replacing the PCC4K screen is a surgical process that requires patience and the right tools.
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Chassis Opening: You must remove the rear plate of the camera. Crucial: There is a very short ribbon cable connecting the screen to the motherboard. If you pull the back plate away too quickly, you will snap the connector off the Main PCB.
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The Heat Method: The original screen is held in place with strong adhesive. You must use a heat gun (on a low setting) or a "heat bag" to soften the glue before prying the old screen out. Never use metal tools to pry, as you will crack the plastic housing.
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Dust Prevention: Once the old screen is out and the new one is ready, use an air blower to ensure the internal cavity is 100% dust-free. Any speck of dust trapped between the LCD and the housing will be illuminated by the backlight and become a permanent distraction.
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ZIF Connector: The ribbon cable uses a "Zero Insertion Force" (ZIF) latch. Use a plastic spudger to gently flip the locking tab. Never use a metal screwdriver, as a slip can short out the motherboard traces.
Quick Diagnostic
To confirm it is definitely the LCD that has failed:
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Test the HDMI: Connect the camera to an external monitor. If you see a clean image on the external monitor but the internal screen is dead, the LCD Replacement Kit will fix the issue.
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Test the Touch: If the image is visible but touch is dead, check if the "Lock" icon is active on the screen. If not, the digitizer (included in this kit) is the culprit.
Are you dealing with a physically shattered screen, or has the display simply stopped showing an image?
