The Blackmagic Design Spares - Camera PCC6K - Power Assembly Cable is the internal wiring loom for the original Pocket Cinema Camera 6K (EF Mount). This assembly is responsible for bridging the gap between the physical power inputs (the battery and the DC port) and the Main PCB.
Unlike the 6K Pro, which uses the larger NP-F570 batteries, this cable is designed for the high-current demands of the 6K's LP-E6 battery system and its 12V-20V DC input.
Functional Role
This assembly is more than just a wire; it is a critical conduit that handles:
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The 2-Pin Weipu Input: Connects the external locking DC port to the internal power regulation circuit.
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LP-E6 Battery Terminal: Links the battery cradle contacts directly to the motherboard.
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Voltage Sensing: Includes the "sense" wires that allow the camera to detect if it is being powered by a battery or an external source, enabling the on-screen voltage/percentage display.
When to Replace the Power Assembly Cable
Because this cable is situated near the left-side ports and the battery compartment, it is susceptible to specific types of failure:
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Intermittent Power-Offs: If the camera shuts down when you shake it or tap the side, a wire within this loom has likely frayed or a solder joint on the DC port has cracked.
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Port "Arcing": If you have used a poorly made D-Tap cable, the pins can "arc" and melt the plastic housing of the internal connector. If you see black charring inside your 2-pin port, this entire assembly must be replaced.
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Battery Incompatibility: If the camera works perfectly on AC power but refuses to recognize any LP-E6 battery (even brand-new ones), the terminal contacts in this assembly may be bent or disconnected.
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DIY Damage: This is often replaced after a user accidentally "tugs" too hard on the internal cables while attempting a different repair (like a screen replacement).
Key Features
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Genuine OEM Part: Rated for the specific gauge required to handle the $25\text{W}$ to $30\text{W}$ power draw of the 6K during high-speed recording.
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Shielded Design: Uses high-temperature insulation to prevent the wires from melting when they sit near the camera's internal heat sinks.
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Locking Connectors: Features the correct micro-Molex or JST headers that "click" into the Main PCB, ensuring they don't vibrate loose.
Technical Installation Note
Replacing this cable in the original PCC6K is a Level 2 repair, but it requires a full "shell" opening.
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Chassis Opening: You must remove the rear housing and the bottom plate. Be extremely careful of the fixed LCD ribbon cable, which is very short and fragile.
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The "Hidden" Screw: The 2-pin DC port is secured to the chassis with a small screw. Do not try to pry the port out of the side of the camera without removing this screw first, or you will snap the plastic frame.
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Cable Routing: The 6K interior is very tight. You must route the new cable exactly along the same path as the old one. If the cable is "pinched" when you screw the camera body back together, it can cause a short circuit that kills the Main PCB.
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Terminal Tension: When installing the battery contact portion, ensure the metal "tongues" are aligned with the battery slot. If they are slightly recessed, the battery won't make contact.
Expert Advice: If your camera is "dead," check the 2-pin port pins with a magnifying glass first. If they are just bent, you can often straighten them with a needle. Only replace the assembly if the wires are burnt, snapped, or if the port housing is physically melted.
Is your camera failing to power on from both the battery and the wall, or is the issue specific to just one power source?
